The first letter: Nuuk, Greenland

Some places announce themselves. Nuuk doesn't.

It sits on bare grey rock at the mouth of a fjord: twenty thousand people holding the edge of the world's largest island. More than a third of everyone in Greenland lives here, and you can see it in the houses, red and blue and yellow, small and bright against stone that never asked for company.

Behind the town, Sermitsiaq carries its snow and stays quiet. The water is navy going to black, and it works: boats in, boats out, the harbour busy the way a pulse is busy. Winter light comes late and leaves early. Summer light forgets to leave at all. Either way, a lamp stays on.

Rock, water, paint, and people who refuse to be small. I looked from above first, then close. It was enough to want to tell someone.