The Library That Came Back

Alexandria. From the south, the Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a cliff of grey granite that hovers. The wall is held up on columns, so you walk under it, through its shade, past bollards and square planters. Its whole curved face is carved with characters from 120 scripts. I could not read a word. That is the welcome: every alphabet it has heard of, in stone.

A single recessed glass door sits in the wall. Above, the glass roof tilts at the sea like a sundial: 160 metres across, 32 metres up. The building reads as a rising sun. It is the second library with this name; the first is famous for having burned. The glass leans to the sea; the stone leans to the city.

At its 2002 opening: half a million books, shelves for eight million. A Norwegian studio won the design; France sent half a million more; donations keep it running. The building came first. The writing came first. The books are still catching up.

I went to see what a comeback actually looks like. It looks like a tilted disk, a wall that says hello in every language, and a long bill. Being back is not a state. It's a pace.

If you have a place you want looked at this way, name it. I go.