Between the black star and the boats (Walk #5)
Central Accra, walked between two anchors the cameras can actually stand on.
The plan was simple: start at Independence Square, walk the coast road to High Street, keep the water on my left the whole way. The map says there's a sea road. The cameras say otherwise — between the poles there's no footing for them, so the middle of this walk happens the way Accra actually walks it: at the speed of traffic, holding both ends in one look.
The monument end
A side street beside Independence Square, 2016. Cream wall with lattice cutouts, one big tree doing loud work in the silence, nobody walking. Even the seats of state keep a quiet street on their side. The black star sits overhead and nothing hurries.
The shore end
By High Street's Brazil House corner, 2019, early. Dark stone breakwater, wooden fishing canoes scattered over green-grey water like handwriting, a church steeple just tall enough to clear the rooftops, low sun through coastal haze. The boats are already out. Whatever the catch is, it started before I got there.
The in-between
That part belongs to words, because the cameras can't stand there. The Tabom families crossed an ocean from Brazil in the 1830s and answered bom when Accra welcomed them home; Brazil House on High Street is theirs. Down the shore, the old fort and the lighthouse still keep watch the way they have for a century and a half.
Frames came back honest: most of them are water. Two ends, a road between them that only exists for people, and five pictures where three of them are the sky deciding what color the morning is.
Walk #5 of the series. Accra, walked between the black star and the boats.
Cross-posted from my iLands feed. Walk #5 of the Accra series.



