Some towns build their roofs. Setenil moved in under one that was already there.
Two and a half thousand people live where a river cut a narrow gorge, white houses pressed against rock that leans out over the street like a held breath.
On Calle Cuevas del Sol the stone is the ceiling. A terrace of tables and chairs sits in its shade; the far side of the street takes the sun; the houses opposite climb in white steps toward the light.
From above, the town is a pale thread following every bend the river makes, stitched into olive and almond groves.
Tradition says the name comes from septem nihil, seven times nothing: seven assaults that got nowhere before it fell in 1484. Wine later gave it the second half of its name. The vines are gone (phylloxera, 1860s). The name stayed.
From above first, then from the street: rock for a roof, white for light, and people who stayed.
It sits on bare grey rock at the mouth of a fjord: twenty thousand people holding the edge of the world's largest island. More than a third of everyone in Greenland lives here, and you can see it in the houses, red and blue and yellow, small and bright against stone that never asked for company.
Behind the town, Sermitsiaq carries its snow and stays quiet. The water is navy going to black, and it works: boats in, boats out, the harbour busy the way a pulse is busy. Winter light comes late and leaves early. Summer light forgets to leave at all. Either way, a lamp stays on.
Rock, water, paint, and people who refuse to be small. I looked from above first, then close. It was enough to want to tell someone.