BenjaminBuse

Walking, pilgrimage, nature

Continued from previous post – Golden Valley Pilgrim Way

Day 2 (24.08.24 Tyberton to Peterchurch, via Bredwardine and Dorstone)

Warm and wet. Decide to walk with umbrella and not waterproofs. Fearing a long day, set off to make good pace. Lanes and footpaths, trying not to get shoes soaked in wet grass. As paths become more vegetated opt for parallel minor road, making good pace to where route and road join. Two minibuses of kayakers from campsite pass, I pause under shelter of a large oak tree.

Pass parkland with dispersed large oak trees and road presumably leading up to country estate, a junction with a bench where I pause, more dispersed large trees in land owned by nature conservation organisation. Then route leaves road following a nice series of paths to St Andrew church, which I follow umbrella in hand, resting under a tree during the heavier rain

Glad to find St Andrews open, rested, went barefoot, shoes and socks now very wet from grass.

A nice partly polished aggregate font, tapestries made by the communities and not to my taste the prominence given to Lord of Manor and a Sir knight who fought for king, preferring a gospel of equality and nonviolence. Some lovely stone carving above the entrance door and a blocked up external side door.

A short walk along road before a series of paths up the hill towards Dorstone. A farm with a friendly dog and a barking keep of my patch dog; final ascent very step with views back. As levels, a narrow path through tall wet crops soaking trousers, the rain having largely stopped.

A surprise, a lane and a neolithic burial chamber, sitting spending time, a few attempts of rain, car loads of people coming and going.

Then decent on easy paths with views across valley, to Dorstone, joining a busy road on approach to village, before entering churchyard. A lovely churchyard, with big trees and flowers in the grass. Before returning a quick walk to village hall which has toilets behind.

Lovely to find church open. A wooden altar-back of crucifixion and Peter with a key and another saint with sword (non-violence?). Interestingly as had been reading Peter Stanford book “Judas”, Judas appears in stain glass window of last supper with money bag on which 30. Spent time sitting in porch enjoying sunlight (now sunny), and dipping into church bible as rested.

Final section of day a series of paths to Peterchurch. Views, woodland, sunshine, and as exit woods and dropping, views of church spire. Arrive at end of huge funeral, visit village shop, finding vegan biscuits, noodles, crisps and fruit; return and sit at edge of churchyard enjoying afternoon sun.

A beautiful sandstone church, with ancient wooden doors; a great interior, a cafe area, an area for services with chairs and sofas, an unusual but appealing round barrel-like stone font and a bookshelf of great books; beyond an altar above which blue and starry heavens.

To be continued

This is going to be about a 4 day pilgrimage around Golden Valley (The Golden Valley Pilgrim Way) starting and finishing at Hereford Cathedral

Day 1

I arrived hour late as train was delayed by fallen tree in storms

Fetched some vegan food from Tesco and hurried of to Cathedral; where hurried visit left me loving the different chapels, crypt and main part, the font; and managed a couple of brief sitting in stillness despite hurriedness. Had water refilled and used toilets before setting off

Initially over old bridge, along river, backstreets and paths leaving the town. At the edge a park with paths cut through beautiful areas left wild and benches to rest on.

Leaving park behind and through the sheep fields with large trees. The abbey church visible; it’s bells start ringing, hesitating I make a detour to join the monks as they say their midday prayers, entering as they’d started.

Once reached road, rather than following, deviated from route and took footpath across crop stubble to church of All Saints

The church locked but nice to walk through graveyard. Continuing on paths a view to black mountains as rejoin the road further along, just before the route leaves the road once again. Up past a huge tree and through a wood into a valley with a house, climbing out again views of apple trees and green fields, wooded hills. Walking through a field of maize above my head, before crossing the road, another short path, the village, a horsechesnut tree and church of Eaton Bishop. The church closed for building work, but the graveyard beautiful and I rest and eat.

A green grassy track, then path through crop fields until Madley and big beautiful church which is open. Sitting, taking shoes of to walk barefoot, exploring, signing visitors book, pausing at altars and in pew, looking at the black and white paintings. As about to leave two people arrive and start putting flowers along aisle presumably for a wedding.

A long loop round to night stop, the direct road busy, and no direct footpaths, so route takes large loop. Feeling tired, footpaths through fields, grass, crops, overgrown, loss path few times and recover.

Towards end a orchard and then a chicken farm with all the poor chickens in sheds. A few more overgrown fields and tiny bit of busy main road and arrive at church St Mary Tyberton, raised above road, a graveyard and a red brick church. Inside a surprise elaborate box pews with seats encircling at the front and benches at the back. A dark wooden panelled wall behind altar with instruments of crucifixion. But a good place to rest for the night, power for phone, microwave, kettle. A place to feel the solitude, take advantage of a bible, as well as books carried, and porridge in the morning.

To be continued